Washer Parts: OEM Parts for the OKC Metro
Washers fail loud and wet, a puddle on the laundry room floor or a drum full of standing water has a way of making the repair urgent. Before you order anything, grab your model number and look up the error code if your machine threw one. Nine times out of ten that code points straight to one part, and buying the wrong one because you guessed is the most expensive mistake in appliance repair. OEM parts fit right the first time; aftermarket can, but often doesn't.
At Yukon Appliance Parts we stock OEM washer parts for Whirlpool, Maytag, Samsung, LG, GE, and Frigidaire. Most common parts leave our Piedmont counter the same day; anything we have to pull from the warehouse ships to us overnight and is ready the next business morning. Text us your model number before you drive, we'll tell you exactly what we have on the shelf.
Top load or front load?
Three families, three sets of parts. Top loaders with an agitator are the old reliable. HE top loaders have an impeller and a lot of electronics. Front loaders wear the boot and the shocks.
Top load, agitator
The tall post in the middle
Top load, HE impeller
Low plate in the tub, no post
Front load
Round door on the front
What actually sells at the counter
Real numbers from our own register: 18 washer parts sold since January 2026. Here's what people walk out with.
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Water inlet valves Whirlpool, GE, Samsung 7 sold -
Drain pumps and hoses LG, Whirlpool 6 sold -
Lid locks and switches Whirlpool, GE 4 sold
Washer symptoms and the part to check
| What it's doing | Usual part | The YAP Dude says |
|---|---|---|
| Won't drain, or drains slow | Pull the pump filter first. Coins and socks. If it's clear, the pump. | |
| Leaks at the front door | Look for a tear in the fold. Mold on the seal is not a leak, a split is. | |
| Bangs and walks on spin | Top loaders: rods. Front loaders: shocks. Replace as a set. | |
| Fills, won't agitate or spin | On older top loaders the lid switch kills everything. Newer ones it's the lid lock. | |
| Agitates one way only, clothes twist | Four little plastic teeth. Five dollar fix. | |
| Motor runs, drum doesn't | Belt's off or snapped. Check the pulley too. |
Washer parts we keep on the shelf
Not on the list? Most other washer parts land at the counter the next business morning. Check your model number or text us.
Have your model number? Find the exact part.
Type your appliance's model number into our part finder, we'll search every major supplier and pull the genuine OEM part in seconds.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where is the model number on my washer?
On most top-loaders, look inside the lid opening on the front-facing lip of the cabinet, there's usually a sticker right there. Front-loaders typically put the label inside the door frame on the left side, visible when the door swings open. If you can't find it, snap a photo of the back panel as a last resort; it's almost always there.
My washer is 8 years old and needs a $180 part. Should I repair it or replace it?
The standard rule of thumb is this: if the repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new machine, replacing starts to make financial sense. A $180 drain pump on an 8-year-old Whirlpool that otherwise runs fine is almost always worth fixing, you're buying several more years from a machine you already know. Where the math flips is when the control board or the motor goes on a machine that's also showing rust, drum wear, or recurring failures.
Is the part I need universal, or does it have to match my model?
Suspension rods, agitator dogs, and door boot seals are almost never truly universal, the dimensions and mounting tabs vary enough between brands and even between model generations that a wrong part won't seat correctly. Control boards and lid switches are even more model-specific. Text us your full model number and we'll pull the exact OEM part number so there's no guesswork at the counter.
What should I bring to the counter when I come in?
Bring your model number and, if you have it, your serial number, both are on the same label. A photo of the broken part is genuinely helpful if you're not sure of the part name, because we can match it visually. If your machine threw an error code, write it down; that alone can cut the diagnostic conversation in half.
Are there any safety concerns I should know about before I start a washer repair?
Electric washers run on 120V standard outlets, so the biggest rule is simple: unplug the machine before you remove any panel, no exceptions. Front-loaders store water in the pump and hoses, so have towels ready before you disconnect anything below the drum. There's no gas line or high-voltage capacitor concern the way there is with a dryer or a microwave, which makes washers one of the more DIY-friendly appliances to work on once the power is out.
“I was not certain how to go about getting parts for my oven that had failed about 2 months ago and I was stressing out over how to get the parts for an oven that I hadn’t seen locally. Thankfully YAP in Piedmont was there to save the day. Morgan was very helpful and even called …”
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